SPF (Sunburn Protection Factor)

It is no news to anyone that sun protection is an essential part of skincare. The feeling of warm rays is wonderful – it makes your body feel comfortable from the released “happy hormones” and produces the vital vitamin D for health. However, if you are not careful with the dose and do not protect yourself properly, in the long term you may end up with burns, wrinkles, dark spots, and even more serious problems like skin cancer.

Here, cosmetics with broad-spectrum sun protection factor come to the rescue.

But first:

What are we protecting against?

From the entire ultraviolet spectrum of the sun (UV light has a lower frequency than the light we can see), there are two types of rays that cause burns and damage the skin, and are constantly around us:

• UVB rays: they reach only the outer layers of the skin and cause redness and burning. This, in turn, increases the risk of developing cancer on the more frequently exposed parts of the skin – face, neck, décolleté, hands.
• UVA rays: they are the “divers” that reach the deep layers of the skin where collagen and elastin are formed, which determine the youthfulness and health of the skin. By penetrating the cells, they affect their DNA so that ultimately the effect is prematurely aged skin, with deep wrinkles, thickened and with dark spots. What you perceive as a beautiful tan is actually your body’s protective reaction, producing the pigment melanin to protect you from UVA radiation.

How does SPF work?

The sun protection factor in cosmetic products, widely known as SPF and followed by a number, aims to block the penetration of harmful rays into the skin. SPF is mainly ensured through two types of filters – synthetic, also known as chemical (or organic); and mineral, also called physical (or inorganic).

• Synthetic filters penetrate the skin, where they absorb radiation and chemically convert it into heat. Therefore, they should be applied at least 20-30 minutes before going out in the sun and in sufficient quantity to be absorbed and effectively taken up by the skin. They have a lighter texture, absorb quickly, and spread easily.
• Mineral filters – recognizable by the white residue they leave – form a direct protective layer on the skin. They start working immediately and practically reflect UVB rays like a mirror. They are more often recommended for sensitive skin as they cause less irritation.

For optimal effect, high-quality cosmetics combine both types of filters against the two types of harmful rays, thus providing reliable broad-spectrum protection, which is always indicated on the packaging.

What do the numbers after SPF mean?

In one sentence, this is the protection factor by which the time it takes for the sun to redden your skin is multiplied. In more sentences, we will explain with an example. You have very fair skin and usually, without any protection, under strong sun, your skin reddens in about 10 minutes.

Ideally, under the same conditions, SPF 15 will protect you for 15 times 10 minutes, and SPF 50 – for 50 times 10 minutes (This also applies to people with darker skin; they just notice burns less easily). However, do not be misled into thinking you can stay in the sun for 150 minutes before burning, because SPF is actually a theoretical measure of protection from the amount of UVB rays you are exposed to.

Also, the percentage of protection given by different factors seems very close but there is a significant difference in protection. SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 – 97%, and SPF 50 – 98%. In practice, however, expressed in photons penetrating your skin, this means that with SPF 15, 7 out of 100 photons pass through your skin, and with SPF 30 – only 3 out of 100.

Here it is worth mentioning that factors like 75 and 100 do not guarantee higher percentage protection, and the values approved in the European Union and recommended by most dermatologists are SPF 30 and 50.

Why is SPF so important for health?

Every day, in every season, whether we are in the city, in the mountains, or at the sea, the sun is our companion, and with it UVA/UVB radiation. Even on a cloudy day, up to 80% of the sun’s UV radiation reaches the earth.

When you spend more time outdoors, your skin gradually dehydrates, the collagen bonds in its cells thin out, and thus it loses its youthful elasticity. Over time, this process leads to thickening of some areas, deep wrinkles, permanent pigmentation, or generally photoaging (or premature aging).

Due to the cumulative effect of UVA rays, stubborn dark spots appear, and an even tan remains only a pleasant memory. No one disputes medical science anymore that prolonged sun exposure leads to the appearance of various cancerous and precancerous skin lesions – an undeniable risk to life.

Research shows that regular application of cream with at least SPF 20 helps prevent photoaging, the appearance of spots and wrinkles, and also reduces the risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) by about 40% and may reduce the risk of melanoma by about 50%.

Who must use SPF?

The short answer is: everyone who cares about their health, without exception, throughout their entire life. (Well, maybe only babies up to 6 months old can be called an exception, and only because they should not be exposed to the sun at all.)

Which product you choose depends only on the condition and history of your own skin, which you know best:

• If, for example, you have very fair skin with freckles, you know your best friend is broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection and a hat whenever you are outside.
• If you have a family history of health conditions, you should not go out without the highest factor you can afford.
• If you have acne, always look for high and non-comedogenic protection, because although it may seem at first that sun and water make pimples disappear, you quickly realize the effect is quite the opposite.
• If your skin is sensitive, look for sun protection ingredients that have a light texture and will not irritate you.

Last but not least:

When, how, and how much?

As annoying as it is, we will say it again because it is so important – whenever you will spend more than 5-10 minutes outdoors, every season, your whole life you need photoprotection.

Match the season and weather with the factor you apply. Use a lower one – SPF 30 – when moving around the city in spring, for example. But when you reach the thin mountain air or the windy sea beach, wear your SPF 50 like a favorite accessory. To put it simply – if you need sunglasses, you also need SPF.

Since the factor gradually depletes under the influence of the sun, do not smirk when asked to apply sunscreen on someone’s back, but apply it on your own as well. It is important to reapply every 2 hours and after every exit from the water, towel drying, or heavy sweating.

Remember that for good application of chemical filters, good absorption is required, so give yourself 20-30 minutes before going outside. And do not be misled – products labeled water-resistant are tested for effectiveness up to 40 minutes of swimming, and very resistant ones remain on you no more than 80 minutes. Therefore, ideally, you should reapply every time you come ashore.

And when we say “ideal case,” we also mean enough quantity of the product – about two tablespoons for the whole body (and most of us apply about half). The more product you save, the more times the protection it could provide decreases.

It is very important to say that no cream guarantees 100% protection. Seek shade when possible, wear cool but clothing that often covers exposed parts of the body, a hat, and UV-protective glasses. Remember that moderation and prevention, as with most things in life, will protect you from unnecessary headaches.